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Miter Saw / November 2, 2018 / Daniela Nilsson.

Alabama Workforce Training Center Miter Saw

If you can use the entire 4-foot width of the Melamine or particle board by all means do so especially if your miter saw is of the "sliding compound miter" type. As for overall table height I would suggest that you build the miter saw table so that the top of the table comes to your belt line when standing. This will give you a comfortable working height and still allow you to bend over the table. There should be a gap cut through saw table top in the area where the saw is to be mounted. This gap must be exactly as wide as the top of your miter saw and must be open to the front of the table. The gap should close behind the top of the miter saw.

A fence can be attached to the back side of the 4 x 4. Use a 1 x 6 or 1 x 8 clear fir board for this purpose. As in the permanent table above the front of the fence must align perfectly with the miter saws metal fence. If a wider support surface is needed a second 4 x 4 can be mounted directly in front of the one with the fence attached to it. A Kreg Trak system with a flip-up stop can also be used on this portable miter saw table. Just make sure the wooden fence is ripped to the proper height to allow the flip-up stop to clear the table by 1/16". (Fence is 2 1/4" + above the top of the 4 x 4.) As for the support table I have used a plastic fold-up table from Costco. They come in various sizes to suit your particular need. Or you can make your own table out of 2 x 4s and 3/4" plywood. Design it so that the legs can fold up for transportation and storage.

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Slide the guard up slightly. This will reveal the screw that holds the guard to the miter saw. Loosen that screw so that you can slide the blade guard further backward. Slide it back as far as it will go positioning it about 170-degrees behind its usual position. This gives you access to the saws locking pin and blade bolt. Depress the saws locking pin (in the very center of the blade) and spin the saw blade until it locks. If your saw does not have a locking pin wedge your scrap wood (ideally a piece of 2x4) in front of the blade to prevent it from moving. Next using an Allen wrench (or an open-ended wrench) remove the blade bolt. Though many saws have a reverse threaded blade bolt the thread pattern is not universal to all miter saws. Accordingly you should look for an indicator on the tool of which way to loosen the bolt or review your tools manual before going to town on it. Remove the flange and finally remove the blade.

And lastly is the table extension where it balances and stops your wood. Miter saw blades also have its different sizes and classifications which are classified into three. 1. The first one is the steel blades which are normally used for plywood and is the least expensive of the three. 2. Second is the high-speed blades which are used both in soft and hard concrete. 3. Third is the carbide-tipped which is the long-lasting and the most expensive of the three blades. Those are the miter saws common features and the kinds of blades that would give you a hint on what miter saw you need. The manual miter saw are only used oftentimes by woodworkers in making frames and produces simpler cuts than that of the compound miter saws.

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