Miter Saw / November 11, 2018 / Pernilla Lund.
High-speed steel blades will hold an edge longer but the real ticket is a carbide-tipped blade which will stay sharpest the longest. I was pleased to see that the Makita LS1040 came with a 40-tooth carbide-tipped blade perfect for a variety of tasks Im doing. When I do need to change the blade theres a shaft lock that immobilizes the blade making it easier to get a wrench on the blade arbor and loosen it avoiding nicked fingers. So those are the things I looked for when choosing my miter saw: a powerful motor the ability to make both angle and bevel cuts at the same time an easy-to-use grip and safety features like the blade brake. Im glad l got a durable saw because once the crown moldings were finished my wife started thinking about adding a chair rail in several rooms and I was off to the lumber yard again. Every large entity starts out as a humble and small enterprise.
Slide the guard up slightly. This will reveal the screw that holds the guard to the miter saw. Loosen that screw so that you can slide the blade guard further backward. Slide it back as far as it will go positioning it about 170-degrees behind its usual position. This gives you access to the saws locking pin and blade bolt. Depress the saws locking pin (in the very center of the blade) and spin the saw blade until it locks. If your saw does not have a locking pin wedge your scrap wood (ideally a piece of 2x4) in front of the blade to prevent it from moving. Next using an Allen wrench (or an open-ended wrench) remove the blade bolt. Though many saws have a reverse threaded blade bolt the thread pattern is not universal to all miter saws. Accordingly you should look for an indicator on the tool of which way to loosen the bolt or review your tools manual before going to town on it. Remove the flange and finally remove the blade.
All miter saws come with a left and right fence that connect in the middle of the saw. These standard fences are very accurate and great for perpendicular cutting. Because they are aluminum however they can bend or break relatively easily so remain cautious with your saw even when just making adjustments. Independent fences are also available for purchase. These are remarkably accurate and tend to yield pretty commendable results. Dust Bags: Because saw dust can be a problem with miter saws dust bags are essential for shop cleanliness and safety. They make a surprising difference in keeping your tools and parts clean but also save operators from inhaling airborne particulates. The dust bag connects directly to the miter saw and collects excess dust and debris during use.
With the exception of Bosch miter saws whose bevel controls are conveniently up-front most saws bevel controls are placed at the back of the saw. While this is typical and more-or-less intentional it has proved less ergonomic than up-front access. Extension Wings: To increase cutting capacities some saws are also built with slide-out extension wings to support larger boards. While in theory this is a great feature unless you invest in a more expensive tool these wings are often not all theyre cracked up to be. Conversely on a more high-quality saw theyre a definitely a convenient extra.