Miter Saw / November 30, 2018 / Tina Abrahamsson
Miter saws are one of the most popular most widely used power tools in the tool industry today. Because of their portability convenient capacities and overall accuracy a miter saw can be found in nearly every wood-shop garage or pickup truck. Miter saws are generally designed to produce fast accurate crosscuts into a workpiece typically for framing or molding applications. The workpiece is pressed up against an angled fence to ensure the most precise cutting angles as you work. The fence generally sits at a 900 angle but can be adjusted as needed for a particular cut. While most miter saws have a miter index that allows users to precisely modify their cut angle in one degree increments most also have capacities which allow for quick and accurate cut stops at common cut angles like 150 300 and 450.
Blade changes are generally pretty simple so dont avoid blade switching out of inconvenience. Using an improper blade can cost you much more in the long run than a few short minutes to pop on a new blade: when cutting to achieve a cleaner more precise cut use a blade with more teeth for a quicker more rough cut use a blade with fewer teeth when crosscutting be sure to use a crosscut blade and so forth. Blade Changes: To change your blade you first need to remove the guard and pivot the blade mount cover or access plate away from the blade and remove the center nut.
The saw must be mounted in this gap so that the top of the miter saw table is flush with the top of the saw table. The miter handle must be free to move its full travel in both directions left to right. Anticipate the need for this gap as you are framing the underside of your miter saw table because you will need to construct a shelf underneath to support the weight of the miter saw. You might want to make this shelf adjustable in micro increments so that you can get the top of the saw platform exactly flush to the top of the saw table. You can do this with lag screws with washers in sliding slots through the shelf sub-structure and into the table framing. Slightly loosen the lags and tap the table up or down with a rubber hammer before tightening the lags fully.