Miter Saw / November 23, 2018 / Tina Abrahamsson.
If you can use the entire 4-foot width of the Melamine or particle board by all means do so especially if your miter saw is of the "sliding compound miter" type. As for overall table height I would suggest that you build the miter saw table so that the top of the table comes to your belt line when standing. This will give you a comfortable working height and still allow you to bend over the table. There should be a gap cut through saw table top in the area where the saw is to be mounted. This gap must be exactly as wide as the top of your miter saw and must be open to the front of the table. The gap should close behind the top of the miter saw.
Blade changes are generally pretty simple so dont avoid blade switching out of inconvenience. Using an improper blade can cost you much more in the long run than a few short minutes to pop on a new blade: when cutting to achieve a cleaner more precise cut use a blade with more teeth for a quicker more rough cut use a blade with fewer teeth when crosscutting be sure to use a crosscut blade and so forth. Blade Changes: To change your blade you first need to remove the guard and pivot the blade mount cover or access plate away from the blade and remove the center nut.
The saws all metal bevel lock lever and range selector are also integrated perfectly into the front of the saw eliminating the need for users to crawl around the thing to make adjustments. The tools soft-grip trigger handle is also ergonomic and ambidextrous for the most comfortable use for every craftsman. The GCM12SD additionally boasts Boschs high-precision Squarelock fence famous for requiring no adjustments its one touch lock/unlock slide and its always stable fence support. Precision machining also ensures the two-piece fence is always aligned to the table top at exactly 90° to produce cuts accurate enough to predict the weather (so to speak). Each side of the miter saw also sports integrated expanding base extensions or material supports that pull-out and lock into position to provide 40 inches left-to-right material support - thats a full 60% more than the leading competitor.
I quickly realized that the tool of choice would be a compound miter saw especially when tackling the crown moldings. I had suffered through a bookcase project a year earlier using a manual miter box and back saw to produce the crown molding trim on several built-in bookcases. There was no way I wanted to repeat that experience! My wife eager to see the remodeling project underway readily agreed to a new saw purchase. A Saw By Any Other Name Miter (or mitre) saws are designed to make angled cuts in wood stock by pulling a circular blade down in a plunging motion. This action gives the saws their nicknames of "drop saws" or "chop saws." A further refinement the compound miter saw can cut both an angle and a bevel simultaneously removing the need for a "work-and-turn" motion when making an angled cut that will smoothly join to another piece of trim or molding. The double action cut is possible because the motor is attached to a pivoting post which allows the blade to swing both side to side and at an angle to the workpiece.