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portable miter saw stand

Miter Saw / October 29, 2018 / Fiore Calabrese.

Assembled Portable Miter Saw Stand Concord Carpenter Folding Leg Sliding Compound Guide Craftsman Workforce Tradesman Table Workbench Plans

A fence can be attached to the back side of the 4 x 4. Use a 1 x 6 or 1 x 8 clear fir board for this purpose. As in the permanent table above the front of the fence must align perfectly with the miter saws metal fence. If a wider support surface is needed a second 4 x 4 can be mounted directly in front of the one with the fence attached to it. A Kreg Trak system with a flip-up stop can also be used on this portable miter saw table. Just make sure the wooden fence is ripped to the proper height to allow the flip-up stop to clear the table by 1/16". (Fence is 2 1/4" + above the top of the 4 x 4.) As for the support table I have used a plastic fold-up table from Costco. They come in various sizes to suit your particular need. Or you can make your own table out of 2 x 4s and 3/4" plywood. Design it so that the legs can fold up for transportation and storage.

Perfect lines and angles are made more easily with the Kapexs fraction of a degree accuracy - once you set a miter angle rest assured it will be exact. The saw is as strong as a brick house but performs with ethereal precision to bring you the most professional results with each and every cut. However as the Kapex is an unconscionably brilliant power tool it also tends to be the most. It is important to remember though that in the business of power tools you always get what you pay for. However if price is a bigger factor or if you are a strictly light-duty user there are many fine miter saws available to meet your big or small industrial needs while also not burning a hole through your wallet. For example: Makitas LS1040 compound miter saw with its light-weight portability and powerful motor sits brilliantly in any home shop or garage.

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If you do find that you have to cut a piece that is larger than six inches and all you have is a 10 inch miter saw you do have a couple of options. The first is that you can simply cut as far as you can and then flip the piece over the finish the cut. The downside is that not all angles can be cut this way. The other issue is that lining up the cuts can be a problem although a laser on your saw will make things a lot easier. Another option that you may want to consider if you have a piece that is a little bit too big for your 10 inch miter saw is to use a piece of wood to raise the cutting deck. This will allow you to get closer to the middle of the blade which will give you more distance. Not all saws have the motor mounted high enough off the deck to make this possible so you will have to check if this is an option with your saw. If you do use this method make sure that you attach the wood firmly to the deck so that it does not slide around while you are cutting. The above methods for making cuts larger than six inches with a 10 inch miter saw are stop gaps that you can use if it is something that only happens occasionally.

If you can use the entire 4-foot width of the Melamine or particle board by all means do so especially if your miter saw is of the "sliding compound miter" type. As for overall table height I would suggest that you build the miter saw table so that the top of the table comes to your belt line when standing. This will give you a comfortable working height and still allow you to bend over the table. There should be a gap cut through saw table top in the area where the saw is to be mounted. This gap must be exactly as wide as the top of your miter saw and must be open to the front of the table. The gap should close behind the top of the miter saw.

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