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miter saw stop

Miter Saw / November 4, 2018 / Fiore Calabrese.

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Miter saws can be expensive depending on its types. The manual has lesser features than the power miter saw therefore it could be more expensive. The power miter saw comes up with different types. These are the standard compound sliding compound and dual compound. These are more expensive than the manual because they are known as a power tool that makes special cuts and is more portable. You also have to decide on what dimensions of the blade because miter saws come up with different blade sizes which is also a factor for the price of your miter saw to increase.

Perfect lines and angles are made more easily with the Kapexs fraction of a degree accuracy - once you set a miter angle rest assured it will be exact. The saw is as strong as a brick house but performs with ethereal precision to bring you the most professional results with each and every cut. However as the Kapex is an unconscionably brilliant power tool it also tends to be the most. It is important to remember though that in the business of power tools you always get what you pay for. However if price is a bigger factor or if you are a strictly light-duty user there are many fine miter saws available to meet your big or small industrial needs while also not burning a hole through your wallet. For example: Makitas LS1040 compound miter saw with its light-weight portability and powerful motor sits brilliantly in any home shop or garage.

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Before mounting the fence or fences to the miter saw table top draw a pencil or chalk line where the front of the fence is to be positioned. Take a long straightedge lay it flat on the miter saws metal table and push one edge of it long the miter saws metal fence. Keeping it in this position draw a pencil line along the table top out as far as possible. Repeat on the opposite side of the saw if you have tables on both sides of the saw. Extend this pencil line as far as possible. Place the fence along the pencil line with the end of the wooden fence almost touching the end of miter saws metal fence. (Leave a 1/16" gap between the wooden fence and the metal fence.) Drill appropriately sized holes for the lag screws through the table top and into the 2x4 joist underneath the table top (one for each slot).

If you can use the entire 4-foot width of the Melamine or particle board by all means do so especially if your miter saw is of the "sliding compound miter" type. As for overall table height I would suggest that you build the miter saw table so that the top of the table comes to your belt line when standing. This will give you a comfortable working height and still allow you to bend over the table. There should be a gap cut through saw table top in the area where the saw is to be mounted. This gap must be exactly as wide as the top of your miter saw and must be open to the front of the table. The gap should close behind the top of the miter saw.

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