Miter Saw / October 29, 2018 / Fiore Calabrese.
The longer you can build it the better off it will be for you but any length of saw table is better than no table at all. My miter saw table measures 8 Feet to the left of the saw blade and another 8 feet to the right of the saw blade. This way I can support the full length of a sheet of plywood on either side. The saw table is constructed over 2 x 4 framing and contains multiple storage drawers below the table which I use to store small tools and supplies. If you prefer the space underneath the saw table can be left open for shelf space or lumber storage. I suggest that the top surface be 3/4" Melamine or Formica over 3/4" particle board.
Producing a virtually unparalleled smoothness of cut the tool is unbelievably precise and offers optimal operator control throughout every conceivable working condition. The new axial system completely replaces the miter saws former and comparatively underdeveloped rail system with two multi-joint articulating (or hinged) arms which appear more akin to a space-robot than a power tool. These cast-iron arms also ensure the saw remains properly aligned and calibrated despite time and unfavorable environments. Additionally the saws axial design is not only responsible for its unmatched durability and crazy-smooth precision but it also folds to sit flush with the back of the saw saving up to 12" of workspace compared with a standard sliding compound miter saw.
Think about a picture frame: the end of each piece of stock is cut at a 45-degree angle but the cut is also made at a bevel from front to back so the matching face is hidden and the joint is neat. Determining What You Need Its important to consider the types of jobs youll be doing when choosing a miter saw. A larger blade can of course handle larger stock. I knew that for the most part I would be working on projects like crown molding picture frames and baseboard trim so a 10-inch blade would be large enough for my purposes. I researched a number of miter saws and ended up choosing the Makita LS1040. This model is very light for a mid-sized miter saw weighing only about 24 pounds. One reason the saw is so light is that the base and side rails are machined from aluminum which gives it light weight but also means that the saw will be durable. Because were remodeling the house we live in I knew that my wife would expect the tools to be taken back to the workshop behind our house after each work session. Thus the lightweight Makita really filled the bill.
Before mounting the fence or fences to the miter saw table top draw a pencil or chalk line where the front of the fence is to be positioned. Take a long straightedge lay it flat on the miter saws metal table and push one edge of it long the miter saws metal fence. Keeping it in this position draw a pencil line along the table top out as far as possible. Repeat on the opposite side of the saw if you have tables on both sides of the saw. Extend this pencil line as far as possible. Place the fence along the pencil line with the end of the wooden fence almost touching the end of miter saws metal fence. (Leave a 1/16" gap between the wooden fence and the metal fence.) Drill appropriately sized holes for the lag screws through the table top and into the 2x4 joist underneath the table top (one for each slot).