Miter Saw / October 26, 2018 / Daniela Nilsson.
Some saws can also be hooked up to a shop-vacuum for easier disposal and better collection. Upkeep: Brushes: Be certain to check your brushes every-so-often for wear and tear. Its important to keep healthy brushes in your tools for performance purposes but it also helps in diagnosing a problem. If you already know the condition of your brushes you either know the brushes are bad or that the problem lies somewhere else. Power Cords:Check power cords for cracks or fraying. Faulty cords will obviously prevent power from getting to your tools but they also present a safety hazard. Additionally if you must use an extension cord use the shortest length possible reach your project. Cleanliness: Keep the tool blown out and your parts clean and tight.
There are three basic types available; the power miter saw compound miter saw or sliding compound miter saw. The power miter saw is a basic model that is good for a person who only intends to make simple cuts of 90 degrees or less such as the cuts necessary for trimming studs to frame a house. A compound miter saw is more versatile than the simpler power model since it adjusts for both miter and bevel cuts. Sliding compound models are more advanced and most versatile model of all miter saws. Because the motor and blade assembly is mounted on a movable arm this saw is perfect for accommodating longer pieces of wood while still performing beautiful cuts on smaller pieces as well. If the project you are doing around the house is quite extensive you might want to consider also purchasing a miter saw stand. The stand is one of the most important elements of a miter saw setup. If the saw does not have a good stable place to sit operating the machine will be frustrating and tedious. A stand will also provide a place for very long pieces of wood to rest while being cut. The purpose you intend to use the saw for will determine what type of stand you should purchase.
The saw must be mounted in this gap so that the top of the miter saw table is flush with the top of the saw table. The miter handle must be free to move its full travel in both directions left to right. Anticipate the need for this gap as you are framing the underside of your miter saw table because you will need to construct a shelf underneath to support the weight of the miter saw. You might want to make this shelf adjustable in micro increments so that you can get the top of the saw platform exactly flush to the top of the saw table. You can do this with lag screws with washers in sliding slots through the shelf sub-structure and into the table framing. Slightly loosen the lags and tap the table up or down with a rubber hammer before tightening the lags fully.
A fence can be attached to the back side of the 4 x 4. Use a 1 x 6 or 1 x 8 clear fir board for this purpose. As in the permanent table above the front of the fence must align perfectly with the miter saws metal fence. If a wider support surface is needed a second 4 x 4 can be mounted directly in front of the one with the fence attached to it. A Kreg Trak system with a flip-up stop can also be used on this portable miter saw table. Just make sure the wooden fence is ripped to the proper height to allow the flip-up stop to clear the table by 1/16". (Fence is 2 1/4" + above the top of the 4 x 4.) As for the support table I have used a plastic fold-up table from Costco. They come in various sizes to suit your particular need. Or you can make your own table out of 2 x 4s and 3/4" plywood. Design it so that the legs can fold up for transportation and storage.