Miter Saw / November 30, 2018 / Tina Abrahamsson
High-speed steel blades will hold an edge longer but the real ticket is a carbide-tipped blade which will stay sharpest the longest. I was pleased to see that the Makita LS1040 came with a 40-tooth carbide-tipped blade perfect for a variety of tasks Im doing. When I do need to change the blade theres a shaft lock that immobilizes the blade making it easier to get a wrench on the blade arbor and loosen it avoiding nicked fingers. So those are the things I looked for when choosing my miter saw: a powerful motor the ability to make both angle and bevel cuts at the same time an easy-to-use grip and safety features like the blade brake. Im glad l got a durable saw because once the crown moldings were finished my wife started thinking about adding a chair rail in several rooms and I was off to the lumber yard again. Every large entity starts out as a humble and small enterprise.
Think about a picture frame: the end of each piece of stock is cut at a 45-degree angle but the cut is also made at a bevel from front to back so the matching face is hidden and the joint is neat. Determining What You Need Its important to consider the types of jobs youll be doing when choosing a miter saw. A larger blade can of course handle larger stock. I knew that for the most part I would be working on projects like crown molding picture frames and baseboard trim so a 10-inch blade would be large enough for my purposes. I researched a number of miter saws and ended up choosing the Makita LS1040. This model is very light for a mid-sized miter saw weighing only about 24 pounds. One reason the saw is so light is that the base and side rails are machined from aluminum which gives it light weight but also means that the saw will be durable. Because were remodeling the house we live in I knew that my wife would expect the tools to be taken back to the workshop behind our house after each work session. Thus the lightweight Makita really filled the bill.
Before joining the two boards together slotted holes should be cut into the back-up board for the purpose of mounting and adjusting the fence position on the table top with reference to the fence on the miter saw. These slots should be slightly wider than the shaft diameter of the lag screws you intend to use to mount the fence to the table. Cut a few equally spaced slots in the back-up board perpendicular (at right angle) to the fence. A 2 x 4 joist should be located under the table top centered underneath the slots in the back-up board. This will give the lag screws something solid to bite into.