Miter Saw / November 30, 2018 / Tina Abrahamsson
The saw must be mounted in this gap so that the top of the miter saw table is flush with the top of the saw table. The miter handle must be free to move its full travel in both directions left to right. Anticipate the need for this gap as you are framing the underside of your miter saw table because you will need to construct a shelf underneath to support the weight of the miter saw. You might want to make this shelf adjustable in micro increments so that you can get the top of the saw platform exactly flush to the top of the saw table. You can do this with lag screws with washers in sliding slots through the shelf sub-structure and into the table framing. Slightly loosen the lags and tap the table up or down with a rubber hammer before tightening the lags fully.
I quickly realized that the tool of choice would be a compound miter saw especially when tackling the crown moldings. I had suffered through a bookcase project a year earlier using a manual miter box and back saw to produce the crown molding trim on several built-in bookcases. There was no way I wanted to repeat that experience! My wife eager to see the remodeling project underway readily agreed to a new saw purchase. A Saw By Any Other Name Miter (or mitre) saws are designed to make angled cuts in wood stock by pulling a circular blade down in a plunging motion. This action gives the saws their nicknames of "drop saws" or "chop saws." A further refinement the compound miter saw can cut both an angle and a bevel simultaneously removing the need for a "work-and-turn" motion when making an angled cut that will smoothly join to another piece of trim or molding. The double action cut is possible because the motor is attached to a pivoting post which allows the blade to swing both side to side and at an angle to the workpiece.
High-speed steel blades will hold an edge longer but the real ticket is a carbide-tipped blade which will stay sharpest the longest. I was pleased to see that the Makita LS1040 came with a 40-tooth carbide-tipped blade perfect for a variety of tasks Im doing. When I do need to change the blade theres a shaft lock that immobilizes the blade making it easier to get a wrench on the blade arbor and loosen it avoiding nicked fingers. So those are the things I looked for when choosing my miter saw: a powerful motor the ability to make both angle and bevel cuts at the same time an easy-to-use grip and safety features like the blade brake. Im glad l got a durable saw because once the crown moldings were finished my wife started thinking about adding a chair rail in several rooms and I was off to the lumber yard again. Every large entity starts out as a humble and small enterprise.