Miter Saw / November 1, 2018 / Albertina Davide.
Before mounting the fence or fences to the miter saw table top draw a pencil or chalk line where the front of the fence is to be positioned. Take a long straightedge lay it flat on the miter saws metal table and push one edge of it long the miter saws metal fence. Keeping it in this position draw a pencil line along the table top out as far as possible. Repeat on the opposite side of the saw if you have tables on both sides of the saw. Extend this pencil line as far as possible. Place the fence along the pencil line with the end of the wooden fence almost touching the end of miter saws metal fence. (Leave a 1/16" gap between the wooden fence and the metal fence.) Drill appropriately sized holes for the lag screws through the table top and into the 2x4 joist underneath the table top (one for each slot).
The saws all metal bevel lock lever and range selector are also integrated perfectly into the front of the saw eliminating the need for users to crawl around the thing to make adjustments. The tools soft-grip trigger handle is also ergonomic and ambidextrous for the most comfortable use for every craftsman. The GCM12SD additionally boasts Boschs high-precision Squarelock fence famous for requiring no adjustments its one touch lock/unlock slide and its always stable fence support. Precision machining also ensures the two-piece fence is always aligned to the table top at exactly 90° to produce cuts accurate enough to predict the weather (so to speak). Each side of the miter saw also sports integrated expanding base extensions or material supports that pull-out and lock into position to provide 40 inches left-to-right material support - thats a full 60% more than the leading competitor.
The longer you can build it the better off it will be for you but any length of saw table is better than no table at all. My miter saw table measures 8 Feet to the left of the saw blade and another 8 feet to the right of the saw blade. This way I can support the full length of a sheet of plywood on either side. The saw table is constructed over 2 x 4 framing and contains multiple storage drawers below the table which I use to store small tools and supplies. If you prefer the space underneath the saw table can be left open for shelf space or lumber storage. I suggest that the top surface be 3/4" Melamine or Formica over 3/4" particle board.
There are three basic types available; the power miter saw compound miter saw or sliding compound miter saw. The power miter saw is a basic model that is good for a person who only intends to make simple cuts of 90 degrees or less such as the cuts necessary for trimming studs to frame a house. A compound miter saw is more versatile than the simpler power model since it adjusts for both miter and bevel cuts. Sliding compound models are more advanced and most versatile model of all miter saws. Because the motor and blade assembly is mounted on a movable arm this saw is perfect for accommodating longer pieces of wood while still performing beautiful cuts on smaller pieces as well. If the project you are doing around the house is quite extensive you might want to consider also purchasing a miter saw stand. The stand is one of the most important elements of a miter saw setup. If the saw does not have a good stable place to sit operating the machine will be frustrating and tedious. A stand will also provide a place for very long pieces of wood to rest while being cut. The purpose you intend to use the saw for will determine what type of stand you should purchase.