Miter Saw / October 29, 2018 / Pernilla Lund.
Blade changes are generally pretty simple so dont avoid blade switching out of inconvenience. Using an improper blade can cost you much more in the long run than a few short minutes to pop on a new blade: when cutting to achieve a cleaner more precise cut use a blade with more teeth for a quicker more rough cut use a blade with fewer teeth when crosscutting be sure to use a crosscut blade and so forth. Blade Changes: To change your blade you first need to remove the guard and pivot the blade mount cover or access plate away from the blade and remove the center nut.
Some saws can also be hooked up to a shop-vacuum for easier disposal and better collection. Upkeep: Brushes: Be certain to check your brushes every-so-often for wear and tear. Its important to keep healthy brushes in your tools for performance purposes but it also helps in diagnosing a problem. If you already know the condition of your brushes you either know the brushes are bad or that the problem lies somewhere else. Power Cords:Check power cords for cracks or fraying. Faulty cords will obviously prevent power from getting to your tools but they also present a safety hazard. Additionally if you must use an extension cord use the shortest length possible reach your project. Cleanliness: Keep the tool blown out and your parts clean and tight.
A slightly more expensive and far better alternative is to use a metal track or tracks with a flip-up stop and measuring tape built in. Such a device is manufactured by Kreg Tools and is available in 4-foot track lengths that can be butted together to make longer lengths. My miter saw table requires four 4-foot tracks two for each side of the saw. The track is mounted to the top of the wooden fence you just made. You will have to adjust the height of the wooden fence (2 1/4"+ above the table top) so that the bottom of the flip-up stop clears the table by about 1/16" in the down position. The nice thing about the flip-up stop is that it can be flipped up out of the way without losing its measurement setting along the measuring tape.
Slide the guard up slightly. This will reveal the screw that holds the guard to the miter saw. Loosen that screw so that you can slide the blade guard further backward. Slide it back as far as it will go positioning it about 170-degrees behind its usual position. This gives you access to the saws locking pin and blade bolt. Depress the saws locking pin (in the very center of the blade) and spin the saw blade until it locks. If your saw does not have a locking pin wedge your scrap wood (ideally a piece of 2x4) in front of the blade to prevent it from moving. Next using an Allen wrench (or an open-ended wrench) remove the blade bolt. Though many saws have a reverse threaded blade bolt the thread pattern is not universal to all miter saws. Accordingly you should look for an indicator on the tool of which way to loosen the bolt or review your tools manual before going to town on it. Remove the flange and finally remove the blade.