Miter Saw / November 3, 2018 / Evelin Nordin.
The saw does not feature the "soft-start" feature found on some-saws so it does jump a little on startup. I simply have to wait a second or two until the blade has spun up to its full 4600-rpm speed and then make my cut. This gives me a little extra time to consider the cut Im about to make remembering the old adage of "measure twice and cut once. Another feature I really like on this saw is the electric brake on the blade. These brakes immediately slow the blade when you release the trigger. If a blade does not have an electric brake it can spin for 10 seconds or longer which can represent a real hazard to you or to the stock youre removing from the fence. My venerable old table saw (also a Makita) came with the electric brake feature and has made me a real believer in this safety device. Miter saw blades come in a variety of materials. Less expensive blades are usually made of steel and are fine for quick jobs using soft woods such as pine but they will dull quickly if youre using hard woods like oak.
Use a long straightedge in all directions to make sure that the miter saw and the miter saw table are flush with each other. Mount the saw securely to the shelf using lag screws. Once the miter saw is mounted you can begin to construct the fence or fences. A simple inexpensive fence can be constructed using 1 x 4 or 1 x 6 clear fir boards. These boards should be hand selected for straightness and jointed on one edge. One board will be the actual fence and the other will keep it straight from behind. The fence sits with its jointed edge on the saw table top while the back-up board lies flat on the table behind the fence with its jointed edge joined to the bottom of the fence.
I quickly realized that the tool of choice would be a compound miter saw especially when tackling the crown moldings. I had suffered through a bookcase project a year earlier using a manual miter box and back saw to produce the crown molding trim on several built-in bookcases. There was no way I wanted to repeat that experience! My wife eager to see the remodeling project underway readily agreed to a new saw purchase. A Saw By Any Other Name Miter (or mitre) saws are designed to make angled cuts in wood stock by pulling a circular blade down in a plunging motion. This action gives the saws their nicknames of "drop saws" or "chop saws." A further refinement the compound miter saw can cut both an angle and a bevel simultaneously removing the need for a "work-and-turn" motion when making an angled cut that will smoothly join to another piece of trim or molding. The double action cut is possible because the motor is attached to a pivoting post which allows the blade to swing both side to side and at an angle to the workpiece.
And lastly is the table extension where it balances and stops your wood. Miter saw blades also have its different sizes and classifications which are classified into three. 1. The first one is the steel blades which are normally used for plywood and is the least expensive of the three. 2. Second is the high-speed blades which are used both in soft and hard concrete. 3. Third is the carbide-tipped which is the long-lasting and the most expensive of the three blades. Those are the miter saws common features and the kinds of blades that would give you a hint on what miter saw you need. The manual miter saw are only used oftentimes by woodworkers in making frames and produces simpler cuts than that of the compound miter saws.