Miter Saw / November 3, 2018 / Evelin Nordin.
Blade changes are generally pretty simple so dont avoid blade switching out of inconvenience. Using an improper blade can cost you much more in the long run than a few short minutes to pop on a new blade: when cutting to achieve a cleaner more precise cut use a blade with more teeth for a quicker more rough cut use a blade with fewer teeth when crosscutting be sure to use a crosscut blade and so forth. Blade Changes: To change your blade you first need to remove the guard and pivot the blade mount cover or access plate away from the blade and remove the center nut.
A slightly more expensive and far better alternative is to use a metal track or tracks with a flip-up stop and measuring tape built in. Such a device is manufactured by Kreg Tools and is available in 4-foot track lengths that can be butted together to make longer lengths. My miter saw table requires four 4-foot tracks two for each side of the saw. The track is mounted to the top of the wooden fence you just made. You will have to adjust the height of the wooden fence (2 1/4"+ above the table top) so that the bottom of the flip-up stop clears the table by about 1/16" in the down position. The nice thing about the flip-up stop is that it can be flipped up out of the way without losing its measurement setting along the measuring tape.
If you do find that you have to cut a piece that is larger than six inches and all you have is a 10 inch miter saw you do have a couple of options. The first is that you can simply cut as far as you can and then flip the piece over the finish the cut. The downside is that not all angles can be cut this way. The other issue is that lining up the cuts can be a problem although a laser on your saw will make things a lot easier. Another option that you may want to consider if you have a piece that is a little bit too big for your 10 inch miter saw is to use a piece of wood to raise the cutting deck. This will allow you to get closer to the middle of the blade which will give you more distance. Not all saws have the motor mounted high enough off the deck to make this possible so you will have to check if this is an option with your saw. If you do use this method make sure that you attach the wood firmly to the deck so that it does not slide around while you are cutting. The above methods for making cuts larger than six inches with a 10 inch miter saw are stop gaps that you can use if it is something that only happens occasionally.
Use a long straightedge in all directions to make sure that the miter saw and the miter saw table are flush with each other. Mount the saw securely to the shelf using lag screws. Once the miter saw is mounted you can begin to construct the fence or fences. A simple inexpensive fence can be constructed using 1 x 4 or 1 x 6 clear fir boards. These boards should be hand selected for straightness and jointed on one edge. One board will be the actual fence and the other will keep it straight from behind. The fence sits with its jointed edge on the saw table top while the back-up board lies flat on the table behind the fence with its jointed edge joined to the bottom of the fence.