Miter Saw / October 26, 2018 / Daniela Nilsson.
Motor Placement: Some saws are built with the motor fixed above of the blade. This makes for easier bevel cuts (especially in thick stock) and typically offers a better line of site while working. Although there is more to every miter saw than the few features listed above these points should help you find the right path to the right saw. Between big cutting capacities bevel adjustments and sliding-tubes there is a miter saw out there that will perfectly compliment your needs. This fact of course brings us right back to our first consideration - that at the end of the day the most important part of any miter saw is its operator.
There is however some variation in this so you will have to check your particular saw. If you look at your saw blade you will notice that it is wider in the middle than it is in at the bottom or the top clearly the closer to the middle of the blade you can get when you are making the cut the wider you will be able to go. Some saws allow you to go deeper than others particularly if you are using a compound miter saw. This will allow you to get another inch or so. That being said you should probably not expect to get more than six inches with a 10 inch miter saw. One thing to keep in mind is that the six inches that you get refers to a straight cut this is something that a lot of people dont think about when they are buying a miter saw. They assume that because it can cut six inches they will have no trouble cutting a 2x6 this is not however the case. If you cut a miter on a 2x6 the distance that you have to go is going to be a lot longer than six inches. If you have a 10 inch miter saw you should assume that a 4x4 is the biggest piece that you will be able to cut.
Slide the guard up slightly. This will reveal the screw that holds the guard to the miter saw. Loosen that screw so that you can slide the blade guard further backward. Slide it back as far as it will go positioning it about 170-degrees behind its usual position. This gives you access to the saws locking pin and blade bolt. Depress the saws locking pin (in the very center of the blade) and spin the saw blade until it locks. If your saw does not have a locking pin wedge your scrap wood (ideally a piece of 2x4) in front of the blade to prevent it from moving. Next using an Allen wrench (or an open-ended wrench) remove the blade bolt. Though many saws have a reverse threaded blade bolt the thread pattern is not universal to all miter saws. Accordingly you should look for an indicator on the tool of which way to loosen the bolt or review your tools manual before going to town on it. Remove the flange and finally remove the blade.
A distinguishing characteristic of a miter saw is the rounded miter index that allows the angle of the blade to be changed relative to the "fence" the bar that holds your stock in place. The protractor-shaped index often has pre-designated "stops" so you can quickly swing the saw head to the angle you want and lock it in place. The Makita LS1040 has nine stops: four to the left and right and the 90-degree straight cut setting. I had previously used a friends mitre saw at a job site and had experienced some trouble with the grip which didnt fit my hand very well. So that was definitely one of the features I considered before choosing the Makita. My new saw has a vertical grip design with a thumb-activated safety switch that lets me use the saw comfortably with either hand. The large paddle trigger is easy to squeeze no matter how Im holding the handle. Motor and Blade Brake There are a number of motor sizes used in miter saws. The LS1040 has a 15-amp motor which is one of the larger motors found on this size of compound mitre saws. Ive found that I can easily cut through tough hardwoods with this powerful motor.