Miter Saw / November 2, 2018 / Daniela Nilsson.
To get technical for a very brief moment (and using the average 10-inch compound miter saw and the average 12-inch sliding compound miter saw (opposite ends of the spectrum to bookend your possible cutting capacities) 10 and 12-inch miter saws usually offer the following cutting capacities: Max Crosscut at 90-Degrees: 2-1/2-inches by 6-inches - through - 4-1/2-inches by 12-1/2-inches. Max Crosscut at 45-Degrees: 2-inches by 8-inches - through - 4-1/2-inches by 8-1/2-inches. Blade at 45-degrees: 2-inches by 6-inches cut - through - 3-inches by 12-inches. Max Standing Molding: 4-inches - through - 6-inches. Bevel: Bevel controls allow users to adjust the angle of the blade to make angled cuts along the thickness of a board.
Slide the guard up slightly. This will reveal the screw that holds the guard to the miter saw. Loosen that screw so that you can slide the blade guard further backward. Slide it back as far as it will go positioning it about 170-degrees behind its usual position. This gives you access to the saws locking pin and blade bolt. Depress the saws locking pin (in the very center of the blade) and spin the saw blade until it locks. If your saw does not have a locking pin wedge your scrap wood (ideally a piece of 2x4) in front of the blade to prevent it from moving. Next using an Allen wrench (or an open-ended wrench) remove the blade bolt. Though many saws have a reverse threaded blade bolt the thread pattern is not universal to all miter saws. Accordingly you should look for an indicator on the tool of which way to loosen the bolt or review your tools manual before going to town on it. Remove the flange and finally remove the blade.
The saw must be mounted in this gap so that the top of the miter saw table is flush with the top of the saw table. The miter handle must be free to move its full travel in both directions left to right. Anticipate the need for this gap as you are framing the underside of your miter saw table because you will need to construct a shelf underneath to support the weight of the miter saw. You might want to make this shelf adjustable in micro increments so that you can get the top of the saw platform exactly flush to the top of the saw table. You can do this with lag screws with washers in sliding slots through the shelf sub-structure and into the table framing. Slightly loosen the lags and tap the table up or down with a rubber hammer before tightening the lags fully.
When searching for high-end power tools at a low price craftsmen should also look for reconditioned tools. Reconditioned tools or recons although sometimes hard to come by are an extremely great value bringing craftsmen the highest-performance tools at a tiny fraction of regular cost. Recons for some minor cosmetic or technical defect have been returned to the manufacturer for stringent inspection and restoration processes. These tools are tested and restored to meet rigid manufacturer standards and are then re-released with a "R" trailing the model number. This little "R" (and potentially hundreds of dollars) is truly the only difference between a brand new tool and a recon. The value with these tools is truly a no-brainer; when recons are available snatch them up as an incomparable investment. Dewalts DW718R and DW716R miter saws are tremendous examples of the value of buying reconditioned.