Miter Saw / November 23, 2018 / Tina Abrahamsson.
Before mounting the fence or fences to the miter saw table top draw a pencil or chalk line where the front of the fence is to be positioned. Take a long straightedge lay it flat on the miter saws metal table and push one edge of it long the miter saws metal fence. Keeping it in this position draw a pencil line along the table top out as far as possible. Repeat on the opposite side of the saw if you have tables on both sides of the saw. Extend this pencil line as far as possible. Place the fence along the pencil line with the end of the wooden fence almost touching the end of miter saws metal fence. (Leave a 1/16" gap between the wooden fence and the metal fence.) Drill appropriately sized holes for the lag screws through the table top and into the 2x4 joist underneath the table top (one for each slot).
To get technical for a very brief moment (and using the average 10-inch compound miter saw and the average 12-inch sliding compound miter saw (opposite ends of the spectrum to bookend your possible cutting capacities) 10 and 12-inch miter saws usually offer the following cutting capacities: Max Crosscut at 90-Degrees: 2-1/2-inches by 6-inches - through - 4-1/2-inches by 12-1/2-inches. Max Crosscut at 45-Degrees: 2-inches by 8-inches - through - 4-1/2-inches by 8-1/2-inches. Blade at 45-degrees: 2-inches by 6-inches cut - through - 3-inches by 12-inches. Max Standing Molding: 4-inches - through - 6-inches. Bevel: Bevel controls allow users to adjust the angle of the blade to make angled cuts along the thickness of a board.
The longer you can build it the better off it will be for you but any length of saw table is better than no table at all. My miter saw table measures 8 Feet to the left of the saw blade and another 8 feet to the right of the saw blade. This way I can support the full length of a sheet of plywood on either side. The saw table is constructed over 2 x 4 framing and contains multiple storage drawers below the table which I use to store small tools and supplies. If you prefer the space underneath the saw table can be left open for shelf space or lumber storage. I suggest that the top surface be 3/4" Melamine or Formica over 3/4" particle board.
If you do find that you have to cut a piece that is larger than six inches and all you have is a 10 inch miter saw you do have a couple of options. The first is that you can simply cut as far as you can and then flip the piece over the finish the cut. The downside is that not all angles can be cut this way. The other issue is that lining up the cuts can be a problem although a laser on your saw will make things a lot easier. Another option that you may want to consider if you have a piece that is a little bit too big for your 10 inch miter saw is to use a piece of wood to raise the cutting deck. This will allow you to get closer to the middle of the blade which will give you more distance. Not all saws have the motor mounted high enough off the deck to make this possible so you will have to check if this is an option with your saw. If you do use this method make sure that you attach the wood firmly to the deck so that it does not slide around while you are cutting. The above methods for making cuts larger than six inches with a 10 inch miter saw are stop gaps that you can use if it is something that only happens occasionally.