Miter Saw / November 15, 2018 / OdeletteGervais.
The saw must be mounted in this gap so that the top of the miter saw table is flush with the top of the saw table. The miter handle must be free to move its full travel in both directions left to right. Anticipate the need for this gap as you are framing the underside of your miter saw table because you will need to construct a shelf underneath to support the weight of the miter saw. You might want to make this shelf adjustable in micro increments so that you can get the top of the saw platform exactly flush to the top of the saw table. You can do this with lag screws with washers in sliding slots through the shelf sub-structure and into the table framing. Slightly loosen the lags and tap the table up or down with a rubber hammer before tightening the lags fully.
Before joining the two boards together slotted holes should be cut into the back-up board for the purpose of mounting and adjusting the fence position on the table top with reference to the fence on the miter saw. These slots should be slightly wider than the shaft diameter of the lag screws you intend to use to mount the fence to the table. Cut a few equally spaced slots in the back-up board perpendicular (at right angle) to the fence. A 2 x 4 joist should be located under the table top centered underneath the slots in the back-up board. This will give the lag screws something solid to bite into.
If you do find that you have to cut a piece that is larger than six inches and all you have is a 10 inch miter saw you do have a couple of options. The first is that you can simply cut as far as you can and then flip the piece over the finish the cut. The downside is that not all angles can be cut this way. The other issue is that lining up the cuts can be a problem although a laser on your saw will make things a lot easier. Another option that you may want to consider if you have a piece that is a little bit too big for your 10 inch miter saw is to use a piece of wood to raise the cutting deck. This will allow you to get closer to the middle of the blade which will give you more distance. Not all saws have the motor mounted high enough off the deck to make this possible so you will have to check if this is an option with your saw. If you do use this method make sure that you attach the wood firmly to the deck so that it does not slide around while you are cutting. The above methods for making cuts larger than six inches with a 10 inch miter saw are stop gaps that you can use if it is something that only happens occasionally.
The longer you can build it the better off it will be for you but any length of saw table is better than no table at all. My miter saw table measures 8 Feet to the left of the saw blade and another 8 feet to the right of the saw blade. This way I can support the full length of a sheet of plywood on either side. The saw table is constructed over 2 x 4 framing and contains multiple storage drawers below the table which I use to store small tools and supplies. If you prefer the space underneath the saw table can be left open for shelf space or lumber storage. I suggest that the top surface be 3/4" Melamine or Formica over 3/4" particle board.